Terry Edmonds - Distance Casting – Explained Part 1

I’m writing a hopefully easy too understand series on long distance casting techniques which I really wanted to do to help people improve it will be made up of small articles rather than confuse the issue with one big article, I get loads of PM’s and e-mails asking for advice on improving casting distance, there is also a lot of bad advice written about that again makes the whole subject very confusing, people are interested in improving their distance not only with leads, but PVA bags and spodding up, so what I want to do is go through various areas of long range casting step by step and hopefully everything will become a lot clearer and you can improve your own fishing, the most often quoted bit of advice I read is that practice makes perfect which to an extent is true but if you don’t know what you are suppose to be doing how can you practice it????

I would just like to say a little bit about myself I have learnt my casting skills on the tournament field casting against some of the best casters in the world and have spent many hours learning about what makes certain casts work I have won many club casting events against international casters, held a court record and have a PB of over 270yds I have also been carp fishing on and off for near on 20 years, the reason I have given you a little bit of an insight into me is to show that I know how a casts works.

How do I improve my distance??? Is the main question I get asked, what I am going to do is talk about the overhead cast as this is what nearly all carp anglers use and rightly so it’s accurate and can when done correctly be powerful.

To make the biggest cast you can the lead has to go round the biggest arc it can within the limitations of each particular style, more arc = more lead speed = distance, so this if the most important aspect of the cast that we have to achieve, and with the overhead style casts its easy to achieve thankfully :0)

In picture 1 you will see what I call a typical carp anglers cast and its what I see all the time not only in teaching but on the bank, it can be a very accurate cast but for distance its no good, if you look at the right arm its bent so the reel is nearly touching my head, my left arm is also bent level with my eyes and im looking towards the water great for accuracy but useless for distance this has to be changed!!!! Combine this technique with a powerful distance set up and your going to struggle to compress the rod if you don’t compress it, it wont work for you.

Right lets have a look at the picture 2 this is the perfect set up for really hitting a lead the right arm is up straight above my head creating a pivot point and large arc and a great lever point.

I have also straightened out my left arm which is where all the speed and power comes from the right arm does virtually nothing in the cast all the power and speed in the cast is created by a very fast pull down with the left arm, this when done correctly creates speed, arc and effective use of the rod, compression with most carp rods is easily achieved.

It will feel a little strange at first but spend 30 mins casting like this and I will virtually guarantee you a big improvement in your distance.

The next step is to use your body weight, in any throwing event the body weight is used effeicently, I have very rarely seen anglers using there body weight effectively when distance casting (running up to the edge of the lake and nearly launching your self in doesn’t count LOL) to do this all you have to do is stand as you would in a standard cast but transfer all your body weight onto the rear leg and lifting the toes on your front leg will help this process, when you feel as though your going to fall backwards you are about right. As seen in picture 3

The lead will now be hanging below the rod STILL, I’m always amazed at the amount of anglers that are swinging leads all over the place for no apparent reason and no understanding why they are doing it!!! We do not want any swaying of the lead as this can effect direction and timing, your body weight will be back and your arms up high, the casting process will now go as such.

1. Big slow step forward
2. Lean forward in to the cast
3. Now snap your left arm down into your chest

By utilising the step and body weight first you will be pre loading the tip and your basic overhead cast will become a lot more proficient, this is because the pre loaded tip will mean during the short power stroke of the cast the tip doesn’t have to be pre loaded first so all the power of the cast will be transferred into the butt quicker and the rod will compress a lot more easier and you will be using the rod a lot more effectively picture 4 and 5 the step

Fine tune your cast the drop

The drop is one of the most important part of any cast and it can be fined tune to suit each individuals feel during a cast as it effects timing, height of cast and the feel of the rod

I’m trying to keep this article simple so as a rule of thumb the drop is never usually longer than the spigot but that’s a good starting place, if the rod feels soft slightly shorten it inch by inch until it feels right, but never less than the first eye up from the spigot for an overhead cast.

Every time you move the drop the timing and feel will be different after you feel comfortable leave it there and mark the blank with tippex so every time you cast the lead can be placed in the same place.

Practice makes perfect

I have spent hundreds of hours on fields practicing my casting usually for tournaments or rod testing, and like anything that requires body movements, timing and technique practice makes perfect, I guarantee you that if you follow the guidelines that I have written in this article your casting will improve no end, and you will now be able to hit areas that you struggled to get to before a lot easier, and there will be a lot of carp out there now that have just become very catchable!!!!

My top tips for gaining those extra yards

1. Remember this drill before you cast arms up, look up and forward, slow step when front foot is planted hit it!!!!!
2. All the power and speed comes from your left arm, the right arm is just a pivot point (reverse if your left handed)
3. The drop is very important
4. Use 3 ½ to 4ounce leads (generally)

I hoped this small article has helped I have tried to keep it as simple as possible next time we will talk about tackle that can help you cast, but first get the technique right as you may be surprised how far your current set up will go.

This section is very important before attempting long-range casting

Please you a shockleader I recommend either 65lb Berkley whiplash or fox tapered leaders both excellent products

A leather Finger stall is another must have item, these can be bought from chemists quite cheaply and is much better than having your finger nearly sliced off believe me it I have seen serious cuts from the braid shockleaders cutting into peoples fingers.

 Making sure the clutch is tightened as far as it will go is another sure way of making you are not fingerless after a big hit.

The other thing I would say is be aware of what is around you and who/what is in the danger zone when casting, walkers, wildlife and other anglers could all be in the firing line please be safe

I’m always willing to help people or give lessons so give me an e-mail: telrck1@aol.com

Good luck & happy casting

Terry Edmonds